Saw palmetto, caffeine, Capixyl™ & co.: what the actives in DSD de Luxe can do
On our product pages you will read names like saw palmetto, caffeine or Capixyl™. Here you will find out what these actives do in DSD de Luxe hair care and which studies stand behind them. These are cosmetics – with sudden or severe hair loss, please have the cause checked by a doctor.
Why hair gets thinner
Every hair goes through a cycle: a long growth phase (anagen) and a resting phase (telogen), at the end of which it falls out. Around 50–100 hairs a day is normal. In hormonally related thinning, the hormone dihydrotestosterone (DHT) plays a central role: it is formed from testosterone with the help of the enzyme 5-α-reductase. On sensitive hair follicles DHT shortens the growth phase, and over time hairs become finer and shorter.
Saw palmetto (Serenoa serrulata)
Saw palmetto fruit extract is one of the most thoroughly studied botanicals in hair care. In laboratory studies it inhibits the enzyme 5-α-reductase, which converts testosterone into DHT. A 2020 systematic review analysed the studies on hormonally related hair loss: five randomised controlled trials and further prospective studies showed positive results. Overall hair quality improved by 60 %, total hair count by 27 %, and hair density increased in 83 % of participants [1].
Saw palmetto extract is contained, for example, in Intense Shampoo 3.1, Crexepil Forte Lotion 3.4.1, Opium Shampoo 7.1 and the Exogrow line (9.1, 9.4.1).
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Caffeine
In a laboratory experiment on human hair follicles, caffeine counteracted the growth-inhibiting effect of testosterone and stimulated follicle growth [2]. The active also performs in use: in a randomised multicentre study with 210 men with hormonally related hair loss, a 0.2 % caffeine liquid increased the proportion of hairs in the growth phase by 10.6 % after 6 months – almost as much as minoxidil 5 % (11.7 %). The authors rate caffeine as “non-inferior” [3]. That is why caffeine is now one of the key actives in scalp care. At DSD de Luxe it is found in 3.1, 3.4.1, 4.1 and 9.1, among others.
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Adenosine
Adenosine is a building block the body makes itself; inside cells it takes part in energy supply. In laboratory experiments it stimulated dermal papilla cells to produce growth factors such as FGF-7 and VEGF. A 2020 systematic review analysed four controlled trials with a total of 260 participants who applied a 0.75 % adenosine lotion twice daily for 6–12 months: the proportion of thick hairs increased, and side effects were rare [5]. In a randomised study with 101 men, the proportion of hairs thicker than 60 µm rose by 10.4 percentage points after 6 months [6]. In a comparative study with 94 men, 37 of 53 participants were satisfied with adenosine, compared with 13 of 41 with minoxidil 5 % [7]. At DSD de Luxe, adenosine is contained in Intense Shampoo 3.1 and Keratin Treatment Shampoo 4.1.
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Nicotinic acid derivatives (methyl nicotinate, nicotinamide)
Methyl nicotinate widens the fine blood vessels of the scalp and so supports microcirculation – felt as a gentle warmth and seen as a brief, harmless redness. Nicotinamide (vitamin B3) cares for the scalp and supports its barrier. In a placebo-controlled pilot study with 60 women with hormonally related thinning, a lotion with nicotinic acid esters led to a statistically significant increase in hair fullness compared with placebo after 6 months [8]. Methyl nicotinate is contained in lotions 3.4.1, 3.4.2 and 3.4.3A; nicotinamide is found in many other DSD products, e.g. concentrate 3.4.3B. Before first use, a patch test on the inner forearm is recommended.
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Capixyl™
Capixyl™ combines a biomimetic peptide (acetyl tetrapeptide-3) with red clover extract rich in biochanin A. The complex supports the anchoring of hair in the scalp. A 2025 review describes studies in which the ratio of growth to resting phase improved [4]. With our Capixyl™ + Placenta Shock Lotion 3.4.4, a 12-week study showed less excessive hair loss in 70 % of participants.
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Exosomes
Exosomes are tiny vesicles through which cells communicate – one of the most exciting new fields of research in hair care. For the combination of Exogrow Booster Shampoo 9.1 and Lotion 9.4.1, 95 % of participants reported visibly less hair loss in a 56-day study.
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Aminopyrrole and melatonin
Lotion 9.4 contains aminopyrrole in liposomes, which deliver the active to the scalp, plus the antioxidant melatonin. In a study with 46 participants, the number of falling hairs dropped by 71 % after 56 days.
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Soothing actives for dandruff and itching
Piroctone olamine and climbazole are established anti-dandruff actives; menthol and eucalyptol refresh and relieve itching. With Antidandruff Shampoo 2.1 and Peeling 1.3, flakes decreased by 81 % in 28 days and scalp sensitivity by 52 %.
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Care that accompanies treatment
Cosmetic actives care for scalp and hair and visibly improve their appearance. Alopecia areata, thyroid conditions, psoriasis or seborrhoeic dermatitis belong in medical hands – our care routines are the ideal companion.
Sources
- Evron E, Juhasz M, Babadjouni A, Mesinkovska NA. Natural Hair Supplement: Friend or Foe? Saw Palmetto, a Systematic Review in Alopecia. Skin Appendage Disorders 2020;6(6):329–337.
- Fischer TW, Hipler UC, Elsner P. Effect of caffeine and testosterone on the proliferation of human hair follicles in vitro. International Journal of Dermatology 2007;46(1):27–35.
- Dhurat R, Chitallia J, May TW et al. An Open-Label Randomized Multicenter Study Assessing the Noninferiority of a Caffeine-Based Topical Liquid 0.2% versus Minoxidil 5% Solution in Male Androgenetic Alopecia. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology 2017;30(6):298–305.
- Bikash C. Topical Alternatives for Hair Loss: Beyond the Conventional. International Journal of Trichology 2025;17(1):13–19.
- Ke BN, Villena JPDS, Frez MLF. Efficacy and Safety of Topical Adenosine for Androgenetic Alopecia in Adults: A Systematic Review. Acta Medica Philippina 2020;54(3).
- Watanabe Y et al. Topical adenosine increases thick hair ratio in Japanese men with androgenetic alopecia. International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2015;37(6):579–587.
- Faghihi G et al. Comparison of the efficacy of topical minoxidil 5% and adenosine 0.75% solutions on male androgenetic alopecia and measuring patient satisfaction rate. Acta Dermatovenerologica Croatica 2013;21(3):155–159.
- Draelos ZD, Jacobson EL, Kim H, Kim M, Jacobson MK. A pilot study evaluating the efficacy of topically applied niacin derivatives for treatment of female pattern alopecia. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2005;4(4):258–261.